Mouth-watering kebabs, fragrant biryani, and airy, cloud-like desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has long been a dream destination for epicures, with inhabitants and visitors alike swearing by its exquisite cuisine.
A Global Honor
Last month, Unesco designated it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – including it in a select list of world cities and kindling hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's peerless food. With this title, it becomes part of a international community of over 400 urban centers across over 100 countries focused on promoting "artistic expression as a catalyst of development that sustains urban life".
The honor "stands as proof of its profound culinary traditions and dynamic culinary scene," as stated by a representative from UNESCO's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to secure a position in this prestigious list of 70 global destinations around the world.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The accolade for this time-honored city comes as no surprise to its inhabitants or dedicated food lovers. Many agree with the opinion that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO accolade, this beloved, bustling, and eclectic city – the administrative center of India's largest state – is at last in the global gaze for what has perennially shaped its essence: an unparalleled love for food.
"'What's for dinner, the method of preparation' is a constant conversation from waking up until going to bed in most homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are actually assessed by the quality of food that emerges from your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The Nawabi City – as it's often referred to after its 18th and 19th Century wealthy Muslim rulers – is renowned for its tender kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were invented, evolved, and elevated to extraordinary levels in their imperial kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were epicenters of food experimentation, merging Persian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were developed. Legend has it that the galouti kebab was devised to cater to an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His cooks minced the meat with raw papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so soft that it required no chewing.
But arguably the greatest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a gentle, leisurely heat, with the container's cover tightly sealed with dough.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
Apart from the famous kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also created a vast array of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a vegetarian's paradise.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only showcases seasonal produce but also provides the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Virtually on every corner, there are small establishments and kiosks – little-known treasures that are immensely loved by the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, large gatherings start gathering from the crack of dawn at a famous tea stall to get a piping hot cup of milky masala chai, presented in earthenware cups, along with pillowy soft buns covered in freshly churned white butter.
In the morning, one can head to a no-frills joint located in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was established, the place is still in great demand for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also offers special seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert available in the winter. The method of making it is scientific and complicated. The artisan beats the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its unique airy feel.
On chilly mornings, street vendors can be seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Many however note that their younger generation are unwilling to take up the craft.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has noted that the city's rich food legacy positions it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, however, will materialize only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – shaped by generational food businesses, from humble street carts to lively restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is hoped, will motivate more people globally to explore these tales and visit the city to taste the culinary delights of Lucknow.
